Last updated September 11th, 1999
Disclaimer: This is simply information. How you use it is up to you. If you get hurt in any way, it is not my fault, or anyone involved in any way with the internet, American Motors, Chrysler, FCA or anyone else but yourself. Be Careful!
Section 1 Under the hood
Section 2 Interior
Section 3 Body
Section 4 Documentation
Section 5 Parts Sources
Section 6 Clubs / Valuation
From: AMC Man <Ambassador@bigfoot.com> Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 23:34:14 -0400 First, I'm going to urge you NOT to do the swap. For one thing, if you have a working I6 system, just hop it up. There's A LOT you can do to a 258 to make it run. V8 swaps, to be done correctly, should be done as the factory did them -- and it is habit for those of us who like to do our own work to cut corners. I can't count how many people I've heard on the list saying they swapped in V8's -- without all of the correct attaching parts -- with "no problems". That's a sweeping misstatement that ignores the fact that their cobbled-together V8 car isn't "safe" or even performs as a factory car would.
There are two or three good vendors of six hop-up equipment; it would be wise to investigate them well before trashing the six. There's Clifford Research, 4WD Hardware, and Mopar Performance, among others. Thanks mainly to all the Jeepers out there, there's actually a LOT you can do to the AM 6 to make it move.
There's a lot more to a safe V8 swap than just a cross member, or cross member and front springs.... Below is my standard swap text file with instruction on doing a CORRECT, and SAFE swap.
-- begin --
************************************* Swapping an AMC V8 into a six cylinder car ------------------------------------- Contributions to make this a more complete/useful guide are welcome; but be sure to send specific items you think might be good to include in the post directly to me <ambassador@bigfoot.com> rather than the AMC-list; I might miss it.
----------------------------------------------------- You will need the following items to correctly do a V8 swap in a six car. 1. Engine: must include the correct auto flex plate for A727 or A904 (if engine is from a jeep, it's probably a TH400 so you will need a different flex plate for the A727/A904). 2. transmission A727 3. driveshaft 4. rear 5. cross members (if in a small body car, you'll need the short motor mount brackets for the front) 6. front suspension, including front springs; also rear springs 7. exhaust 8. emissions canister & other attaching parts/hoses 9. radiator 10. brake setup including master cylinder & booster * note: four cylinder cars all had different brakes. I believe sixes frequently use the same brakes as V8's, but CHECK. 11. wiring harness for V8 (although you CAN extend the six harness) 12. notch the strut bracket on passenger side if using free flow manifolds. It is wise to get ALL of these parts for a swap. If you do an incorrect swap, you will end up with a dangerous ride that might get you sued if the other guys' lawyer finds out you built this ride and making monthly damage payments for a long time. The V-8 stuff is heavier-duty than six equipment; do it right and you'll never have to go back and do it over. Factory engineers did things a certain way FOR A REASON. Emulate them and you can't go wrong. ************************************ If anyone would like to add anything to this instruction, please email me directly at <ambassador@bigfoot.com>. -- Marc
-=-=-=-=-
In an Eagle?
Putting a complete 4.0 in place of the 4.2 isn't too hard - use the
4.2 oil pan and oil pickup, and the complete fuel and intake system from a Jeep donor
vehicle.
Credit Ron Hallack-rhallack@earthlink.net
and Frank Swygert - FARNA@worldnet.att.net
Convert an Eagle to a V-8? It is difficult. See the link: http://www.users.nac.net/gr/eagleweb/v8eagle/
Others? how to install newer engine/transmission (i.e. 401/727) in an older enclosed-driveshaft car (i.e. 64 Classic). ???? Ask on the AMC-List
Put in the proper bulb - trade #158 (per 1969 tsm)
Check for proper belt tightness
Check isolation diode (the bulb is wired across this diode)
Check for clean connections at alternator, battery, engine-to-ground strap.
Another source indicates the wires that attach to the alternator
probably are corroded, even if the corrosion can not be seen. Check all terminals and
wires very carefully for any sign of corrosion. Also check the wires attached to the
started solenoid, as any corrosion there contributes to the problem.
Dan's favorite:
Try a new oil fill cap, even if the old one looks good.
Also make sure the PCV system is working 100 percent.
If it still leaks:
Remove the valve cover
remove all traces of old gasket or RTV
Clean both sealing surfaces with a solvent. let dry.
put new RTV on both the cover and the block. Tighten bolts to specification
LET DRY 12-24 hours before starting!
Finally, install an aftermarket cover - See http://www.netheaven.com/~dwyer/amc/valvecover.htm - or http://www.nexttime.com/mbrodeur/AMC/AMCVC.html.
Chrysler also has a (Expensive) kit. See or call you local Jeep dealer.
For 1969 models - Click here
For 1970-72 Hornet and Gremlins - Click here
For Eagle - Concord and Spirit models - Click here
1969 calibration information from the 1969 AMC TSM
1970-72 calibration information from Chilton's repair and Tune Up Guide - Gremlin and Hornet, published 1971
1980 / 82 calibration information from the 1980 and 1982 AMC TSM
The '84 and up TSM doesn't specify the temps, but are probably the same as 1980 and 1982
Note: In my experience, the gauges usually work just fine - it
it the sending unit that ages and causes inaccuracy in gauge readings. I've seen this
problem in all AMC cars that I have owned, and therefore it seems like these cars will
never overheat! This can be dangerous - if you have any doubts, replace your temperature
sending unit today! They are available at better parts houses everywhere for less than
$10.
Here is some AMC 6 Cylinder engine data from Frank Swygert - FARNA@worldnet.att.net and Andrew Hay - adh@an.bradford.ma.us
AMC six cylinder dimensions in order of size:
SIZE YEARS BORExSTROKE
INCHES (liters) INCHES
| 195.6 (3.2L) | 1955-65 | 3.125x4.250 |
| 199 (3.3L) | 1965-70 | 3.75x3.00 |
| 232 (3.8L) | 1965-79 | 3.75x3.50 |
| 244 (4.0L) | 1987-present | 3.90x3.41 |
| 252 (4.1L) | Mexican Only | 3.92x3.41 |
| 258 (4.2L) | 1971-1995(?) | 3.75x3.90 |
| 282 (4.6l) | Mexican Only | 3.92x3.90 |
| 293 (4.8l) | Jeep Racing | 4.00x3.90 |
Note: 195.6 came in both L-head and OHV configurations. Same rods and crank, different piston design (L-head flat, OHV domed).
199-232-244-258 shared basically the same block. Block deck was
increased 1/8" in 1972, rods increased accordingly to keep displacement the same.
Block lightened in 1980. 244 block lacks facilities for a mechanical fuel pump and cores
are cast differently than others to allow for increased bore. Bore was increased to
improve acceleration with a corresponding shorter stroke while maintaining adequate
displacement. All external dimensions are the same for all these engines. Early models may
not have all mounting bosses of later models, but later models have all bosses of earlier
models (specifically the pre 1980 blocks may not have bosses used by the Eagle,
later blocks, including the 4.0, do).
To put a 258 crank in a 4.0 block you use the 258 crank and rods, 4.0 pistons. That's it. All bolt right in with no mods. You do need a 71 or later 258 -- the later the better.
The computer needs no modification.
Frank Swygert - DSRTFOX@delphi.com via the AMC-LIST
Dan's Note: With a 3.88 inch bore and a 3.895 inch stroke, You've got a 276 cubic inch (4.52 Liter) motor!
Phil Campbell javlnman@lewiston.com provides the following link to putting a 4.0 liter head on a 4.2 liter block. http://home.att.net/~jweir/jeep/head/home.htm (note - link is dead...)
For information about servicing trunnions on your pre-1970 car, See: http://www.netheaven.com/~dwyer/amc/trunnion.htm.
I'm having trouble adjusting the feedback carbuetor on my 6 cylinder AMC engine. Help!
See the AMC technical service manual, or the following URL's may
help: http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/august/techtips.htm
or http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
or
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/tech/258bbd/main.htm
Any tips on repairing my wiring?
You bet. See Matt Haas's excellent Electrical Systems Primer at http://w3.one.net/~mhaas/techinfo/elecprim.html
What are the differences in the various 4 wheel drive systems used
on AMC Eagles?
1980 - 1981 1/2 NP119 transfer case - Non-disconnect front axle - Automatic four wheel
drive - no 2 wd.
1981 1/2 - 1985 (or should this be '84?) NP129 transfer case - disconnect front axle -
Full Time 4wd / 2 wd / Stop car to shift between modes.
(There was a link describing this system at
http://www.amcwc.com/GREMLIN.htm, but it has been removed)
1986 NP128 transfer case - non-disconnect front axle - Full Time 4wd / Shift on the fly.
Open differential in transfer case. All other Eagle transfer cases use a viscous
limited slip differential!
1987 - 1988 NP129 transfer case - non-disconnect front axle - Full Time 4wd / 2 wd / shift
between modes at any speed (shift-on-the-fly).
Also see the Eagle transfer case swap info at:
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/n0kfb/homepage/amc/tech/transfer_case/swap/
Also see the Eagle Select Drive repair guide at http://people.mn.mediaone.net/n0kfb/homepage/amc/tech/select_drive/
Also see the Eagle spotting guide at
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/n0kfb/homepage/amc/eagle/spotting/
I've changed tires / gearing and now my speedometer is reading incorrectly. Help?
See Matt's speedometer gear chart at http://w3.one.net/~mhaas/techinfo/gearteeth.html
another note by Matt:
The only problem you may run into changing transmissions is the drive gear. In the 60's,
AMC had three (7, 8, or 9 teeth). Assuming the number of teeth on the drive gear is the
same, you shouldn't have any problems. The gear is on the output shaft and it doesn't
matter what type of transmission is already there. I do have gear charts for 66-69 on my
web site in the Technical Information section.
To figure out which gears to use, you need to know the axle speed at 60 mph. To get this, divide 5280 by the circumference of your tire to get axle rotations per mile (which is a constant). Use this number and your rear gear ratio to get the proper gears to use.
If that doesn't work for you (like when you have an aftermarket gear ratio or very tall tires), you'll need to calculate the driveshaft speed at 60 mph and then divide that number by 1000 (which is how fast the speedometer cable spins at 60 mph). The driveshaft speed is simply the RPM's from the last calculation multiplied by the rear gear ratio. This should be the same RPM seen on a tachometer if you have a manual transmission. Automatics will show a slightly higher RPM due to converter slippage. Once you have the driveshaft speed, divide that number by 7, 8, or 9 (# of teeth on the drive gear) until you get a number close to a valid number of teeth on the driven gear. You'll probably be off slightly, but that's okay since speedometers (just like every other factory gauge) are not 100% accurate.
Matt
mhaas@one.net
http://w3.one.net/~mhaas
1966 Rambler Rebel
1968 Rambler American
Cincinnati, Ohio
Or the following data sent by Bob Wood (mailto:Amcamx69@aol.com) on speedometer gears:
------------------ beginning of Bob's comments -----------------
Here's the the part numbers for all the speedometer driven gears, but I can't find the chart that tells which one goes with what gear and tire size. Here are the part #'s for each gear, the # of teeth, and the color.
'68-'74 (except '72-'74 w/auto. trans.)
935 9001B 20 Blue
935 9001C 21 Tan
935 9001D 22 Pink
935 9001E 23 White
935 9001G 18 White
935 9001H 19 Brown
935 9001I 20 Red
935 9001J 21 Black
NOTE: To pick the correct gear requires axle ratio, tire size, and transmission type. If
your speedometer reads slower than your actual road speed you need a driven gear with
fewer teeth than the one you are using. If your speedometer reads faster than your actual
road speed you need a driven gear with more teeth than the one you are using.
I'll try to find the chart that tells me what driven gear goes with what axle ratio, transmission, and stock tire size.
------------------ end of Bob's comments -----------------
Larry Blatt (mailto:Roguev8@aol.com) sent some information as well:
------------------ beginning of Larry's comments ----------------- I just went through this whole scenario with speedo gears when I swapped out my 3.54 in the Rogue for a 3.15. The car has D70X14 tires on it. The original driven gear in the car was white with 23 teeth. It was dead accurate into the 95mph range. When I installed the 3.15, my TSM said to use a light blue gear with 20 teeth. This I did, and it also seems to be dead accurate. A lot depends on tire size. Here's what my Parts Book says about AMC V8's with 3.54 gears and four speed:
| Tire size | Speedo Gear Teeth | Part Number | Color |
| E70X14 | 23 | 3167393 | White |
| 7.35X14 | 22 | 3167392 | Pink |
| 7.75X14 | 22 | 3167392 | Pink |
| 8.25X14 | 21 | 3167391 | Tan |
| 7.75X15 | 21 | 3167391 | Tan |
| 8.25X15 | 21 | 3167391 | Tan |
| E60X15 | 23 | 3167393 | White |
These are the 3 speedo gears used in ALL AMC's with the 3.54 gears. If you are using different size tires, that may be your problem. You may have to check the drive gear in the transmission. It should be an 8 tooth gear, according to what I've found in my TSM and Parts Books. Anyone else have different information?
------------------ end of Larry's comments -----------------
And yet another solution to the problem by Tom Jennings (mailto:tomj@wps.com):
------------------ Beginning of Tom's comments -----------------
someone wrote re: picking the right speedo gear after an axle and/or rear tire change.
There's an easier way than calculating up the chain of absolute gear ratios.
Simply multiply the number of teeth on the gear currently installed by the percentage
error of the odometer with that (wrong) gear installed.
For example, you drive 10 highway Measured Miles, and your odometer says you went 11.2
miles. Divide Odometer miles by Actual miles: 11.2 / 10 = 1.12. Multiply the number of
teeth on the gear you have installed by this number -- this is the correct number of teeth
for 0% error. You'll have to pick the next-closest integer; for example, if in this case
you had an 18-tooth gear, the correct gear has 18 * 1.12 = 22.4 teeth, so pick 22.
------------------ end of Tom's comments -----------------
This is a common problem with Eagles. New part "housing unit
" cost about $120, junk
yard price is about $50. (Ed. note - This price is somewhat variable. I paid as little
as $20 in wrecking yards). Temporary fix is a small wire about 6" long with a
loop on one end to hook around the shifter detent, the other end of the wire, attach a
small key ring to hook your finger into to pull up, held in place with a small rubber band
attached to the shift handle.
With the right tools and time (about 1 hour ) this unit can be repaired by removing the shift lever and take out the detent with broken cable, drill out the old cable ( hard to drill harden cable ) and replace with new cable ( fishing line leader or cable from a remote control outside mirror ). The top end of the cable can be held there with fishing line lead weight squeezed onto the cable that must be cut to an exact length. The special diamond tip drill bits used to drill out harden cable can usually be obtained free by the handful from your friendly dentist. This is not a job that everyone can do, but it can be done.
If you drive an Eagle, sooner or later that shifter detent cable
will break.
Thanks to Marvin Holland
It has also been reported many Ford products with floor shifters use the same shifter. Please let me know if you have used a Ford shifter with any success
258 lineage (All AMC sixes!)
Date: Sunday, March 25, 2001 02:50 AM
From: Frank
Swygert <FARNA@worldnet.att.net> as seen on the AMC Mailing list
You're thinking of the 195.6 six cylinder. Here's a quick
run-down of AMC six cylinder engines:
Nash 234.8 OHV six dates back to at least 1936. Nash made an
OHV six since at least 1929. L-head six dates back to 1929
also. All Nash sixes have seven main bearings. 234.8 has a
3.38" bore and a 4.38" stroke.
1940 - 234.8 made as L-head and OHV up to 1940. L-head
dropped after 1940.
1941 - 172.6 L-head six appears for first US all unit body
car, the 1941 Nash 600 (3.125" bore, 3.750" stroke).
1950 - 172.6 L-head used in first Rambler, 1950 Nash
Rambler. Same engine is stroked 1/4" to make a 184 L-head
(3.125" bore, 4.000" stroke) for the larger Nash Statesman
(mid size model).
1952 - First 195.6 L-head appears for the Statesman by
stroking the 172.6 another 1/4" (3.125" bore, 4.125"
stroke). 184 is dropped but 172.6 continues in Rambler.
234.8 is bored out to 3.50" to create a 252.6 for 1952 Nash
models.
1953 - 172.6 replaced with 184 in Rambler.
1954 - 2 barrel carb head made for 195.6. Until this time
all Nash sixes had 1 barrel carbs.
1955-56 - Hudsons continued to use the old Hudson 202 and
308 L-head sixes. These were dropped after 1956. 1957
Hudsons were V8 only. The old Nash 252.6 OHV engine dropped
after 1956. 1957 Nash models were V8 only. No Nash or Hudson
models after 1957.
1956 - L-head 195.6 converted to OHV by changing the block
casting on right side just above the camshaft and of course
making a new head. Head can't be bolted the L-head block
because of block casting change. All lower end parts (crank,
rods, bearings, oil pump) are identical. OHV uses new domed
piston and different distributor. All L-head engines dropped
from production. OHV has 1 barrel carb only.
1957 - OHV 195.6 gets 2 barrel carb, no 1 barrel this year.
1958 - 195.6 L-head reintroduced with the "new" 1958 Rambler
American economy car. American is slightly face lifted 1955
Rambler, the only time a US manufacturer has successfully
reintroduced an old model! Recession of 1958-59 helped
Rambler American become a huge success. OHV gets a 1 barrel
or 2 barrel carb. 58-65 L-head is 1 barrel only.
1961 - A die-cast aluminum block version of the 195.6 OHV
appears. All but the block, oil pump, and lifters are shared
with the iron version. This is the first AMC six with
hydraulic lifters -- all other had solid lifters. Aluminum
expands and contracts more than iron, hydraulic lifters were
necessary to make up for expansion. Also the first AMC six
with full flow oil filter (to keep from clogging hydraulic
lifters). All others were partial flow -- only 20% of the
oil was filtered at any one time. Aluminum engine dropped
after 64 due to higher cost to produce and low consumer
confidence. No real problems with the engines, consumers
just weren't comfortable with the new material. Now of
course all engines have at least some aluminum parts, and at
least 30% of passenger car engines have aluminum blocks. In
the early sixties aluminum was relatively new in cars and
alloys weren't as strong as today.
1964 - Late in the model year a new 232 six is introduced
(April). This is available only in the Classic for 1964 as
an option, 195.6 is still standard engine. The 232 is a
totally new design with hydraulic lifters, full flow oil
filtering, and seven main bearings (most inline sixes had
only five at the time, including the old 195.6). NOTHING is
shared with the ancient 195.6, which is continued in OHV and
L-head form for the American. 232 is modern "sunder square"
engine. This means bore is bigger than stroke. Bore is
3.75", stroke 3.25".
1965 - 232 is available as an option in American, standard
in all others. First year a six is available in the
Ambassador! If you ordered an American with AC, you had to
have the 195.6. The 232 is longer, no room for an AC
condenser in front of radiator with 232 installed. American
232 used special short shaft water pump and short pulleys.
1966 - 232 continues. 199 replaces the 195.6, which is
dropped after 65 models (some late 65s got 199s instead of
195.6s). 199 is a shorter stroke 232 (3.00" stroke). All
parts shared except rods, crank, and pistons.
1971 - 199 dropped after 70 models. 258 introduced by
increasing stroke of 232 to 3.875". 232 continues.
1972 - Transmission bell housing pattern of six changed to
be the same as the V8. Previous models used a smaller bell
housing pattern.
1979 - Last year 232 is used. Dropped after 1979 models.
1987 - 4.0L MPFI six appears. This replaces the GM 2.8L V6
used as an interim engine in Jeep Cherokee and Comanche
models from 1984-86. Block is a new casting though identical
to 258 in most ways. Major difference is that bore is
3.875". 258 block can't be bored that much!!!
1990 - Last year 258 is used. 1987-1990 258 is only used in
Eagle and Wrangler.
1991 - 4.0L HO model introduced. New head has raised ports,
add 13 HP to engine output. New computer stores trouble
codes, has user accessible diagnostic system. Renix computer
used from 87-90 has no user accessible diagnostics and
stores codes only until engine is turned off.
1996 - 4.0L receives an main bearing cap "girdle" to
strengthen bottom end and a new graphite coated skirt piston
to reduce piston noise as the engine wears. Some other minor
engineering changes made, none significant. All newer parts
can be retrofitted to older engines.
2002 - Last year for the 4.0L? Rumor has it that 2003
Cherokees and their replacement ("Liberty"?) will have a new
3.5-3.7L V6 to replace the 4.0L inline. Cherokee Classic
will stay in production for another year or two alongside
the new model. I could be off a year -- 2001 may be the last
4.0L year, 2002 intro of new model Jeep. Interesting that
Chryco wants to drop the inline when Chevy unveiled a new
inline six for their trucks this year for 2001 models!! Main
problem is long inline won't fit design of new Jeep. 4.0L
may stay in production a while longer for the Wrangler
though.
--
Frank Swygert -- Gulfport, MS
Publisher, "American Independent Magazine" (AIM)
Supporting all AMC related vehicles, 1902-1987
Website: http://home.att.net/~farna
Order a subscription via credit card from our website today!
.
How big is my engine, in the metric system?
Cubic Inches Vs Liters for Common AMC Engines
(1 Liter = 61 Cubic Inches)
196 = 3.21
199 = 3.26
232 = 3.80
244 = 4.00
258 = 4.22
290 = 4.75
304 = 4.98
327 = 5.36
360 = 5.90
390 = 6.39
401 = 6.57
I need the headlight adjusting screws for my Eagle? Where can I find them?
The HELP! (Motormite) part# is 42124, and it says on back of box that it fits some late '70's Cadillac's. The NAPA part# is 665-1039 From Miah (address unknown) and the AMC-List
Speaking of lighting - I need bulbs for my Eagle's factory fog lights.
They are reported to be an H1 bulb.
The the old AMC numbers are 83503692 and J8133441. The current number is 4728646 @ $25
each. (01/98)
The locks on my AMC are troublesome. Who can I turn to for parts and
/ or advice?
One AMC lock expert is Peter Stathes 51 Twin Lawns Hicksville New York 11801 Telephone
#516-935-5298 e~mail statamc@hotlink.com. from Bob Pendleton Rambler411@aol.com and the
AMC-List
Where can I get factory service manuals for my car?
Chrysler - See Dyment Distribution's brochure at http://people.mn.mediaone.net/n0kfb/homepage/amc/dyment/tsm.htm. Call them for manuals not listed. They may have what you need in stock. If they claim not to have it, call again in a few weeks; some people have reported that old manuals are available if you are persistent.
If Dyment can't help you, there are numerous vendors out there. Here are more vendors that have been reported to carry old TSM's
| Irv Bishko Auto Literature 216-338-4811 |
Bob Pendleton (714)662-7200 Rambler411@aol.com |
Also check with Brent Havekost's web page - http://www.tdi.net/havekost/nash.htm. He has much more in stock than what is advertised on his web page. His e-mail address is havekost@tdi.net
Finally, http://www.americanmotors.com/manuals/AMCmanuals.html is another source for some manuals
Where can I find AMC parts on the internet?
Most bog auto parts stores are now on the internet. Two of my favorites are NAPA at http://www.napaonline.com and CSK Auto (Checker Auto in my part of the world) at http://www.cskauto.com/ . Both sites will allow you to order on-line. Beware that prices listed on-line will vary from the prices they have in their stores.
Go to http://www.partsvoice.com/partsquery_.html, select Chrysler, then type in your part number, but BE SURE TO PUT A "J" in front of the number, i.e., J3197963. Then type in your area code in the proper box, and let the thing search for you. From Larry Blatt via the AMC-List
Another parts source on the web is http://www.ramblerparts.com/.
Who are a few NOS AMC Parts Vendors?
One good source - Planet Houston AMX / Eddie Stakes - Eddie knows about lots of AMC's are for sale, and where to find many parts - NOS, New and used. E-Mail planethouamx@pdq.net US Mail 3400 Ocee #1601, Houston, TX. 77063. 713-785-1375
Where can I find door hinge bushings for my AMC?
From John
T. Elle <johnelle@sprintmail.com>
Mopar part numbers:
J3698103 Bushing $2.31 each, Two bushings are needed per hinge; 4 needed per door.
J3698103 is the heavy-duty bushing used on 77 and later cars (except 77 80-series)
J3615486 Pin 2 needed per door, $3.25 each.
J3615486 applications -
73/78 40 (Gremlin)
73/78 01 (Hornet/Concord) front
73/77 05-08 (Hornet 4dr/wagon) (two hinge arrangement)
79/up Spirit and Eagle passenger cars
One source is Ron Waters - rbw@classicone.com - The Chrysler part# is J3698103. As far as I know, there is no aftermarket part available. Thanks to Jeff Denison - Mr_AMC@hotmail.com via the AMC-List
Another source for hinges and bushings: Crowley Auto Search Page
or use http://www.partsvoice.com
Is there a lift kit available for my Eagle?
To sum it up - not that anyone is aware of. Why do you want one?
Don't use your Eagle to boulder-bash, please!
How large a tire will fit under an Eagle?
Not going to listen to the boulder-bashing advice? Fine. Folks on
the AMC list report that anything from a 205/75r-15 up to 245/60-15 work. I have found
that being conservative (and searching high and low for 195/75r-15's) and using nothing
larger than 205/75r-15's is the best way to go. Also, the 7 inch factory rims have very
limited clearances in any case. Not good enough for you? Sorry.
The largest tire ever to be fitted at the factory is a 215/65r15.
Myths about AMC and AMC Engines - See http://www.javelinamx.com/javhome/basics/basics.htm for the usual "wrong" answers, and the right answers as well. See also http://www.amxfiles.com/amc/ for good info about the history of American Motors.
VIN decoder - 1981 - 1988 http://www.amxfiles.com/resource/tech/vin3.html
VIN decoder - 1968 - 1980 http://www.amxfiles.com/resource/tech/vin2.html
Is there any on-line reference for AMC Eagles? Yes - I know of the
following sites. There are undoubtedly more: There is Dan's AMC Eagle spotting guide at
http://www.n0kfb.org/homepage/amc/eagle/spotting/
See also http://www.nexttime.com/mbrodeur/AMC/EagleTech.html
for some vacuum diagrams from 1983, and a few part numbers. For more part numbers see http://www.netheaven.com/~dwyer/amc/partlist.htm#eagle
also http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/morgan/247/amceagle/index.htm
What's my car worth?
That's a very good question, and not there is not a very simple
answer.
Buy a copy of Old Cars Price Guide, stocked at better news stands everywhere.
Website - Old Car Price Guide
How do I subscribe (or unsubscribe, for that matter) to the AMC-List?
Check for instructions at http://www.amxfiles.com/amc-list.html
What are some AMC clubs, and which one should I join?
See the list at http://www.amxfiles.com/resource/amc_clubs.html
Or see the following:
JOIN AN AMC CLUB TODAY!
Note: This section is quite dated, and dues prices have probably gone up.
You say, "OK, but which one?"
There are four different clubs (Plus many independent clubs) because there are many different kinds of AMC guys/gals. Each of the clubs fills a different need.
AMC World Clubs (AMCWC): sends out an excellent, fact-filled newsletter, "AMX-Tra". There's probably more useless but intensely interesting AMC trivia stored in editor & president Larry Mitchell's brain than there is stored in anyone else's brain... Except maybe Larry Daum's or Tom Benvie's. The newsletter is also relatively unique in the AMC hobby in that the articles printed are heavy on real reporting of current AMC events. AMCWC meets are usually AMX-heavy; typically, the cars that show up at the meets are some of the highest-quality and most-correct in the hobby. Dues are prorated, $25/year. Write for scheduled dues amounts: AMCWC, 7963 Depew St, Arvada CO 80003. Website: http://www.amcwc.com
American Motors Owners Association (AMO) provides invaluable support & encouragement in improving the quality of member's cars. Not geared as much as AMCRC is towards living with an AMC as a daily driver, but definitely the club to join if you seek to be inspired by the impeccable, fine examples of AMC automobiles and the fantastic craftsmanship of the members of this club. To subscribe to the club magazine, "American Motoring", send $30 to: AMO, c/o Tom Bunsey, 6881 Van Wagener, London, OH 43140. Website: http://www.science.uwaterloo.ca/~afleming/amo/amo.html
AMC Rambler Club (AMCRC): generally a well-run club and most definitely has the most fun people -- but they only recognize 58-69 AMC's. The emphasis in this club is preservation & enjoyment. The general attitude here is to drive them. The meets put on by this club reflect this, because people are very friendly and appreciative of each other. To receive AMCRC's quarterly booklet, "The Rambler Reader", send $18 (or $24 if you want the monthly Ad Release) to: AMCRC, c/o Frank Wrenick, 2645 Ashton Rd, Cleveland Heights, OH 44118. Website: http://www.amcrc.com/
National AM Drivers and Racers Association (NAMDRA) is primarily for racing enthusiasts; so someone who finds something to like in the others won't necessarily find anything to like in NAMDRA. But if you're into racing your AMC or Jeep, this is definitely the crowd to get with. For more information, write P.O. Box 987, Twin Lakes, WI 53181, (216)371-5946 or (216)371-0226. Web Site: http://www.javelinamx.com/NAMDRA/
American Independent Magazine (AIM) covers all makes and models associated with the last of the American independent automakers, American Motors Corporation. Together, the publisher and subscribers explore the connections between these companies, their histories, and all aspects of their products. This includes performance, restoration, racing, and driving. See the web site http://www.javelinamx.com/AIM/ for more information.
Total Performance Independents, a magazine published by Dick Datson of Florida, is another good information source. Additional information is not available at this time. If you have any info about TPI, send me a note at n0kfb@mediaone.net.
Which came first - AMX or Javelin?
Yes, both came first! Actually, the AMX was a design prototype, but the Javelin was built and sold first. Both AMX's and Javelin's were first sold in 1968.
More AMX trivia
AMC produced a model called 'AMX' from '68-'74 and '77-'80. Only the
'68-'70 models used a unique body, so some hobbyists refer to the two-seater models when
they use the term 'AMX', and refer to the later models as 'Javelin AMXs', 'Hornet AMXs',
'Concord AMXs', and 'Spirit AMXs'.
Thanks to Alfred T Koos (akoos@juno.com)
What registries exist for AMC Cars? Who keeps them?
See http://www.netusa.net/~ramblerd/amc/registries.htm
Thanks to Eddie Stakes - planethouamx@pdq.net
The Planet Houston AMX Registry List as appears in my catalog. If you enjoy your American Motors vehicle and want to make a difference, for yourself and others who own that certain model, please take a moment of your busy schedule to write the Registries, and fill out a questionnaire. It is only by your personal involvement that we will all understand the differences our American Motors cars share such as Limited Productions, unusual colors and options, early and late builds, why some sold well, and others didn't. It might also help us understand how many are still left, and in what conditions, so please write! If you would like to 'adopt' one of the Registries, please write me and I will help you get started. It doesn't take much time, but will take a few dollars for stamps and replies, but again, it is well worth it in the long run, and your chance to make a big difference for those who collect, drive, restore, race, show, and just enjoy the fine products AMC built. For info on adopting a registry write:
Eddie Stakes
3400 Ocee #1601
Houston, TX. 77063.
713-785-1375, 11am-1pm, CST, Mon-Fri
e/mail planethouamx@pdq.net
Disclaimer: This FAQ is simply information. How you use this information is up to you. If you get hurt in any way, it's not my fault, or anyone involved in any way with the internet, vendors, manufacturers or sellers or anyone else inhabiting planet Earth. Information presented here can not be guaranteed to be reliable. If you find an error, please let me know. I will be happy to correct the error. Be Careful! your safety is up to you!
last updated
20220403a DRM/drm